Thailand...the land of smiles genuine people.
Hey all! Just wrapped up a 2 week, 700 km bicycle ride through the mountains of Northern Thailand. A friend of mine who’s a professor in Korea and I rode the Mae Hong Son loop (Chiang Mai-Doi Inthanon-Mae Hong Son-Pai-Chiang Mai) and had an incredible time being challenged with every hill on our way. I didn’t know much about Thailand before, but over the last couple of weeks I’ve learned a bit of basic Thai language + culture, gained some basic knowledge on the economy + history, and will share a bit of insight from my trip.
If you plan to visit Thailand, here are 10 things you NEED to know and keep in mind before, and during your trip.
1. Don't diss the king or the Thai Royal Family.
Thais have incredible respect for the Thai King and the Royal Family, even if he married one of his protective guards. In Thailand you will see pictures of the Royal Family and Thai King Rama X on the sides of the road, outside of government buildings, on Thai money, and at small stores. If you visit, don’t make any type of negative comments toward him or the Royal Family as Thailand has VERY STRONG Lese Majeste laws; you will likely end up in jail at his majesty’s pleasure. These laws will likely have little impact on your stay unless YOU make them.
Careful!
Even making an off color comment about the king (Rama X)--or former king (Rama IX) can land you in Thai prison for 3+ years.
Don't flip off photos of him, don't tear money, and just smile and keep walking when you see photos of them.
2. Thais are like still waters; they hold back their power, are not visibly disturbed, and run deep. But they will kick your ass if you test them!
Thailand is about 98% Buddhist, with very small pockets of churches and mosques in areas of cities (and several small churches in the countryside). Thai culture largely strives to maintain face, harmony, respect, and tradition at all times. This means don’t be an asshole and you'll REALLY enjoy yourself. Don't get into shouting matches, don't get into loud arguments in public, and don't lose your temper in traffic. If you make a faux pas, such as showing someone the bottom of your feet or dressing inappropriately, the locals will likely not say anything. Trying your best to understand the depth of social harmony will give you lots of smiles and will make your trip much more rewarding.
Culture Tip:
Thais primarily greet and show gratitude with a wai, a slight bow + pressing of the hands together at heart level. Even if you can’t speak Thai, this gesture + a smile will open tons of doors during your time there.
3. Cash is (almost) king.
Credit cards can be used in major establishments and chains, but after purchasing a specific amount, and they may also charge a transaction fee. Local shops only take cash or a Thai electronic payment app tied to a local bank account. Make sure you can get cash there.
Local exchange rates are quite good when you exchange for Thai Baht, even in Suvarnabhumi airport (2% difference between spot rate and the markup).
Credit cards can be used in major establishments and chains, but after purchasing a specific amount, and they may also charge a transaction fee. Local shops only take cash or a Thai electronic payment app tied to a local bank account. Make sure you can get cash there.
Local exchange rates are quite good when you exchange for Thai Baht, even in Suvarnabhumi airport (2% difference between spot rate and the markup).
Keep Your Passport Handy!
You need your passport to do anything (buy a transport card, exchange money), so be sure to keep it handy!
4. The locals' bag of tricks was empty.
I was not cheated once, despite a language barrier and often not asking the price for food before purchasing it in villages, unlike in India and Indonesia. I was treated very fairly and kindly. There are scams, mainly around bars and alcohol. Taxi scams are largely gone now due to Grab, but they are more expensive than I remember (about $4-$6 to get across Chiang Mai).
There are also signs warning about snatch + grabs from motorbikes, so be mindful of your surroundings.
The biggest danger I saw is tourists on scooters or motorcycles, wearing almost no clothes + Biden aviators flying down the road and cutting people off. Thais generally will not show outward frustration or animosity to bad driving. The Thai police had several road blocks in Chiang Mai and on the roads outside of Chiang Mai to check licenses and registration. If you don’t want any pain, make sure you have an international driver’s license + motorcycle license.
5. Thailand is developing VERY quickly in spurts, without integration in poorer parts of the country (Isan, Mae Hong Son)
Exchange rate between USD and THB (Thai Baht) is about 35 Baht/$1. Makes Thailand cheaper than it was a few years ago when I went in 2020 (when I likely got COVID in January).
Rural areas are still very rural and reminded me of my time in Indonesia as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Life is much slower paced.
Mass Transit exists in Bangkok, (Airport Railway, Skytrain, River Ferries) and works fine to get from A to B. Each line has its own payment system, requires buying a different ticket. Other cities (Singapore, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur) have integrated payment and ticketing systems with a smart card. Thailand has electronic stored value tickets, but you cannot use them across different systems (BTS Skytrain Rabbit Card cannot be used on the Metro or Airport Railway) Visa cards (tap) can be used on the metro, while the airport railway requires a ticket.
Burning up and sweating like crazy?
Head into a Metro station; they all are MUCH cooler than baking outside in the heat.
6. Come and ‘spend’ a while… but not too long!
Thailand is VERY strict with visa enforcement (category, length of time, etc.). Gone are the days when you could teach English for a few months, and do a periodic visa run to Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, or Myanmar, then around to get another 30 days. Once you enter visa-free, you largely get 30 days/2 weeks (depending on how/where you cross). If you want to stay, you can pay to extend your stay for an additional 30 days MAXIMUM, but you must visit immigration and give them a reason.
If you overstay, you're rolling the dice!
If the police determine you've overstayed before you arrive at immigration, you will likely be taken to a holding center and then deported with an entry ban.
This could happen at a random traffic stop with a cop checking licenses and passports. Be smart and follow the local laws and customs!
7. Weed is all over tourist areas, not in villages or local areas.
Smoking weed (as of Feb. 2024) has been legalized in Thailand for personal use in private areas. In public areas with lots of foreigners, you will smell it and likely see people outside smoking and checking out some of the ‘all you can smoke’ weed buffets, eating edibles/baked goods, and kicking back with a doobie. I didn’t see any locals partaking, but I’d imagine they’d be priced out (if I remember correctly, it was about 1000 Baht / $30USD an hour)…for consideration, the average cost of a local meal is less than 100 Baht.
As of Feb. 2024, A bill is being sent through the Thai legislation to make smoking marijuana illegal again.
Some countries (Singapore, China, Korea) will still charge you with possession of a drug (marijuana) if you have it in your system, regardless of where you’ve consumed it. This means goodbye job (and likely) goodbye freedom. If you live in/plan to visit these countries, use your best judgment. The penalties for drug use are harsh.
8. Thailand doesn’t air its dirty laundry for tourists to see.
Thailand has suffered from political problems over the last few decades with a strong military largely dictating policy and toppling governments that it sees as unfit to rule. (Not) Fun fact: Thailand has had the most coups (13)–and attempted coups (9)–in recent history. Near the border with Myanmar where I cycled everything looked fine, but there are no doubt major problems (human trafficking, drug trafficking, money laundering) in the Golden Triangle and other unstable parts of the country down South.
They want you to see the Thai Tourist Police, which is a whitewashed version of the Thai Police created to protect foreigners and limit their interactions with the real Thai Police.
Thai Tourist Police phone numbers are EVERYWHERE and encourage foreigners to call in case they have problems or are scammed. The one time I’ve needed to use it, after getting scammed at a ping pong show many moons ago, it worked as a threat and likely saved my ass.
10. Happy Endings abound. 28% of visitors plan to come back again in the same year!
Thailand is one of the largest tourist destinations in the world. With white sandy beaches, warm weather year round, delicious food, and kind locals, it is very inviting to first time and frequent visitors. Whether you’re on the beaches of Phuket, people watching in Soi Cowboy, or on a motorcycle trip in Doi Inthanon National Park you will see people from all over the world and hear many different languages. (Primarily English, Russian, Korean, Mandarin, and Japanese).
Most visitors who return are within Asia (Malaysia, the Philippines, China, Singapore), but it has been a very popular vacation spot for Northern Europeans, especially in winter.
Many Thais do speak a BIT of English to make communication easier, especially in restaurants, bars, and hotels. However, the Thais do REALLY appreciate foreigners trying to go the extra mile (I know I’m repeating myself here!).
If you travel right, the people of Thailand can be incredibly kind, friendly, and helpful–and they want you to have incredible memories of the country.